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Veni, Vidi but not Vinci |
SIHI 2003 Update
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…and that is how it should be : a Trek Log
Trek with Ed Glanville Trek Route (Sketch map)
I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills;
From whence cometh my help
Psalm 121:1
The Agra group had returned quite exhausted with their travails in the Indian buses by 2nd morning. Then, we all went to Paltan Bazar to rent our trekking equipment. But unfortunately the three shops dealing with it were closed. As we discovered later, the shops belongs to three brothers, who had divided the business between them some years ago. Their mother had recently died and they were in mourning. So, some – Asad, Brandon, Ruchika, and Avita decided to go for Pizza and a stroll round the town, before finally returning to SKCC hostel in Vikasnagar. Samidha, Abhishek and Harpreet decided they had had enough of hot and muggy Dehradun and they returned to Vikasnagar around noon by bus. So did S.
While students rambled around the Vikasnagar market, S and Nishant, Ruben’s youngest son, went to Dehradun (Machhi market!) and rented out the necessary equipment. Later during the day, Harpreet’s uncle, aunt and relatives came and escorted Harpreet back to Hissar. They and S had quite an emotional bye-bye on the road. They were already pressed for time, since it was evening and they had a long drive ahead to Haridwar. Harpreet’s parting message was:
Tell them that the GOAT will be there with them in spirit…
A sumo and an ambassador car were our transport for today. S arrived early at the hostel – some common items had to be distributed; We had breakfast, which Maggi and Ruben were kind enough to get up early and prepare for us. We packed some snacks too. Finally we all left and the drive on those crazy mountain roads began. One by one all the girls, left Sumo and opted for the Ambassador –the old warhorse of Indian roads. After some time, near Badkot, the Amabassador’s front shock absorber gave way. Well, it only meant that the driver would have to drive more slowly! We stopped at a small dhaba (eatery) well before Hanumanchatti, our destination. S made a dramatic announcement: drink as much coke as you can – this will be your last chance for the next 7-8 days!
As we moved on, we caught glimpses of the higher snow covered peaks. Hanumanchatti is the end of the road on the steep side of a deep valley. Couple of shops; A few windows announcing that ‘bed’ is available; couple of yellow STD sign boards. In a bygone era, Chatti represented a pilgrim stop, where pilgrims could get dry rations and do their own cooking, rest for a few days and then carry on, on the jungle trails. Today, they are more like small tourist oases in the middle of nowhere. Many cars and buses parked on every inch of available space. You could buy TP rolls, coke, camera reels and even make a call abroad! But these images of ‘development’ are quite deceptive – as we had all learned by now.
To the right of this market, is a trail going to Nissini (Nissu) village, which continues to climb to Darwa pass. Since we had arrived at the road-head by 1 pm, we started our trek to our first camping site Kandola, about 3 hours away. It was a meadow in the middle of the forest at about 7500 feet. On the way, we had our first taste of unpredictable weather, when, in a matter of few minutes we were totally drenched in a sudden downpour.
Many villagers come here with their cattle for the good grazing available and stay in temporary shelters, called Chhani. A girl took Avita, Samidha and Ruchika in to one of these for tea and warmth.
The trail climbed up thru a series of small meadows and mixed forests. Birch (Bhojpatra) and Oak trees abounded. There were many switchbacks and it was important for the group to stay together. S who had to read the trail, needed sufficient lead. Here and there, the group was rewarded with beautiful sights of the higher peaks to the north of Hanuman Ganga. After some steep climbing, and plenty of rests, for ‘Pristine ritual’, snacks or otherwise, we all landed at Seema – a big meadow, a grassy knoll, just below the tree line, into which the trail disappeared. Two government officials, responsible for a trekking party of IAS officers, were also camping here; When S returned with instructions, everyone was stretched out on the green grass with the blue sky for canopy and Bandarpoonch (monkey tail), at 6316 metres, as a massive wall painting to the north.
From here, the climb became tough since we had crossed the 10,000 ft mark and low oxygen pressure was a felt reality. We were walking on rubble and even on snow in some ravines. Around 4 pm, it was obvious that crossing that final ridge, beyond which lies Dodi tal, would not be possible that day. So, a spot with water and some shelter from the winds was chosen for camping; Since the washer of the pumping stove brought by S gave way, Nishant and Abhishek collected some dried Juniper bushes and S cooked noodles in a big pressure cooker. A mendicant sadhu also joined us to share the prashad! His appearance and disappearance in the landscape, both were sudden. A couple of members were too tired to come out of their tents; Nishant had a little problem due to altitude but he acclimatized well over the night and the next day.
As we walked ahead the scene of Bandarpoonch and other peaks in this range became clearer and nearer. The trail twisted and turned towards the east. Some patches were still treacherous with snow. We were overtaken by a group of trekkers – some IAS and IFS officers – in different stages of disarray and dismay! Finally we crawled over ‘heart-break’ ridge – Darwa pass (4300 metres). S confirmed it with the help of the map and GPS. A young gujjar man came strolling up from the opposite direction. He talked about the even more exotic lands lying ahead, but on a different route. He shyly accepted the energy bar in exchange for posing for Abhishek’s camera.
A brief rest, and off we went to approach Dodi tal. But these trails, in order to avoid snow covered high ridges, go meandering about – like some oriental tale of unending chase & escapades. So it took a couple of hours to get to the point from where it was all downhill; The group’s patience was sorely tried by this trail! Nirmal, higher up on a shortcut, looked like a small red beetle in this immense landscape.
Finally, we descended in to this narrow valley; crossed and re-crossed the Dodi stream, and finally, when we were concentrating on looking down, we suddenly raised our heads to see this ethereal lake ringed by woods (3400 metres). An unbelievable sight! And yes, there was a Coke shop too! But there were many tourists also! Many children from a Delhi school! That is the price of coke!
Next morning, we had a leisurely beginning after the girls returned from the temple. Brandon, disabled by an infected solar skin burn on his neck, decided to return from here. Nirmal thoughtfully volunteered to escort him back to Vikasnagar. The rest of the party began the second lap. The plan was to climb the Gidara ridge, and come out on the Harsil road near Gangnani hot springs. But there were some important ‘ifs’.
As we climbed, the views were again breath taking. Early monsoon clouds were sailing below us. A small white patch sometime approached and we would be enveloped in mist. The trail was not broad nor well used, like the one we had walked so far. Apparently, it was more in use by stray gujars. A dry water course sometimes would appear like a trail. Finally we came to the twist in the trail, which was causing some concern to S. From a distance, it appeared like a gray dash on a white patch, hundreds of feet above the valley floor. When we approached it, we could see, that it was a narrow steep gully, covered in snow. Gujars had walked across it, leaving a trail behind. The bottom could not be seen. The group helped each other and crossed it.
What would be the state of Gidara ridge? That was the million dollar question now – unvoiced but in the back of S’s mind.
The trail climbed higher and higher up the side of the valley – sometimes creeping under overhanging cliffs, at other times just a ledge suspended in air (as it were)! Fresh buffalo droppings gave some hint that the route as far as the Gujar huts at least, was open.
Finally the route climbed a promontory- looking down from which was irresistible. We all stopped for a brief rest and some sight seeing. From this elevation, we could see the Gujar hut and our next camp site.
“See that broken ridge over there and those ravines going up - ”
S pointed to a snow covered ridge next to the head waters of Asi-ganga.
“If we can get there fast enough, so that I have enough time to recce & decide which ravine to go up, we have a chance of climbing that ridge and getting on to Gidara, despite the snow.”
On Avita’s request, he broke a twig and gave the “briefing” to SIHI storm troopers all over again, while cameras went into action! It was a happy group of children but there was an undercurrent of unease.
Then, we descended to the Gujar hut, where we had some hot milk, Khichri and went to sleep in our tents.
Next morning as per plans, we got up early, bid adieu to Gujars and started. We were entering a region which was cut up by many tributaries of Asi-ganga. These were separated by small meadows with no one defined path of getting in, out or across. Some sections of old trail were simply washed out by tons of scree and boulders. There were constant reminders of intense and continuing geologic activity: snow and water coming down from steep higher slopes, just above these meadows were grinding down and eroding vast masses of land. Finally we got to a point where, the trail was hanging in mid air – its lower section replaced by a steep eroded water logged mountain side!
If you stopped, you slipped and there was snow below. If you moved briskly you had a chance of getting thru. But before that, you had to reach the launching pad by lowering yourself through some hardy bushes! It was a test of agility, quick thinking and self confidence. If the group couldn’t handle this, there was no point in going further, S thought! The group did it! But it took some precious time!
Now we were standing right in the course of frozen Asi-ganga. There were many radiating gullies, going up to the ridge, like spread fingers. Some of course were blind alleys. Last time, when S did this trek with Ed Glanville, it was full of scree and boulders, but no snow. There were cairns too then, which now were invisible under mounds of snow.
We began walking up one of the gullies. Surface of snow was somewhat flat here but gradually became steeper.
“Walk on the edge of the snow and land..” rang out the instruction in the gully, as everything was engulfed by a white mist. The ridge line was invisible. Asad was ahead and was becoming a blur.
“Asad, don’t go beyond my visibility.” S requested as he looked at the long line of six red dots.
Everyone was doing her/his best and the group was making good progress in difficult terrain. Walking on the junction of snow and steep sides of the gully, we often came across a huge boulder, around which there was a kind of crevasse – just big enough to swallow a leg! Bypassing it was equally difficult on terrain which consisted of loose stones of varying sizes at a steep incline. While it was fun battling with all those elements of nature, the progress was necessarily slow for various reasons.
After climbing in this gully for about two hours, we came to a Y junction.
“Which branch shall I take, Dr Sachin?” Asad’s voice rang out.
There was mighty little to choose from! We took the left and Asad was able to haul himself on to a grassy patch, which appeared to be leading to the meadow above…
Was it?
Finally S got to the point where Asad sat, with steep gullies falling away on both sides. Picking one of the red rucksacks, he went ahead to look for a path. As he climbed, there was only dry grass to hold on to, and the terrain became steeper and steeper.. with no change in sight.
STOP.
In the silence and failing light in the gully, it sounded just next to his ears. But it was a prompt from within. He stopped and looked gingerly at his stance and his feet: A red dot could be seen in slow motion far below. It was a steep drop. The feature he had been trying to climb was like a tower, leading nowhere and surrounded by steep ravines.
Time was 4 pm and we were at least a good two hours away from any camp-able ground! Soon it would be dark. The group, helped by S, in the interest of safety and well being of everyone, took the decision to turn back. The main factors were:
Many of our shoes were not fit for such terrain (snow)
We did not have other climbing gear (ice-axe, ropes), which could have been called for at a later stage.
There was no way of finding out what the condition of snow was beyond the ridge.
We were short of time (by 11th we wanted to be back in Vikasnagar).
The real challenge for the group was now: at the end of the day, would they be able to grit their teeth and march till they got to a safe camping site?
They did it!!
The group wanted and deserved a camp fire but, well above timber line, there was nothing to burn. Even water had to be brought from some distance away. Before we slept on the 8th June, we saw that face of the Himalaya which rarely surfaces in picture post cards!
Next morning, morale was fine. The group decided to do 2
days in one: Reach Gujar hut, grab some food and carry on to Dodi tal!
Denied the hot springs, everyone had set their eyes on the next best goal: a
complete relaxation day in Vikasnagar and Pizza at Domino’s and Party in
Dehradun and some more marketing to be on the safe side..
S, not to be left behind, was dreaming of fish curry and rice, no matter which
hotel Mr Shukla takes the group to…
A brief stop at Gujar hut, provided us with hot sweet milk and some big chapattis for the way. Then, the snow crossing- the last hurdle and reminder of our frailties. Two gujjars were sitting on the other side of the snow patch. One found our crossing quite interesting and photographed us with his beat up Russian made camera.
Then we came to a forsaken gujar hut. This made us realize that last time we had seen it from a decent height; This time, apparently, we missed the correct trail and descended in to the valley. S knew that his GPS was not going to help here. Satellite signals get cut off by steep mountains. Evening gloom was gathering. There was not much time to explore each wisp of a trail, which there were in plenty. Finally, we found a trail which appeared to go in the right direction; Would it end in a high bowl? or taper off in to a forest patch, where buffaloes go to graze every day?
S was moving like one possessed – stopped when Samidha said from behind – “Stop, where is Abhishek?”
Abhishek's back pack was giving trouble. So were his hunter shoes. But his good humor never failed!
Then, we were overtaken by a religious procession.
Thank god, we are on the right path. But along with the procession came a dog too!
By six that evening, we were at Dodital.
Today also, the group decided to do two stages in one: about 24 kilometres – Dodital to Agoda to Sangamchatti, the road head: such was the call of fish curry and pizza. We started early in the morning with the barest of snacks. Utilized some shortcuts. And by 3 pm were at Sangamchatti, which was a kind of record for a group carrying full pack.
S phoned Ruben and enquired about Brandon and Nirmal. They had reached safely.
We were able to hire a Mahindra jeep to drive us to Uttarkashi, 18 km away. By the time we reached Uttarkashi, it was 5 pm. Asad hates night driving.
Abhishek: Asad don’t get coerced in to a decision by us. Stay in Uttarkashi and come to Vikasnagar tomorrow by bus.
Asad asks S. He smiles and gives him a philosophical answer:
Well, my totally irrational belief is, your life is safer in the car in which I am traveling! But it is entirely your decision. It is fine by me whatever you decide.
Finally the whole group leaves together for Vikasnagar in a rented car.
……
Dr Sachin, can you ask the driver to pull over and wait-
We are close to Mussoorie; It is about nine at night; It is a downpour straight out of a nightmare. Thick mist has reduced visibility to about 10 feet. The driver lives in Rishikesh and has to go home after driving us to Vikasnagar. He is in a hurry.
Finally we reach SKCC hostel around 11.30 pm; Maggi and Ruben are waiting for us; Nice hot dinner is also waiting.
Everyone rested. Bathed. Washed. In the evening, S came with certificates, which took hours to print (he sorely missed Jerome) and with some books as gifts. After supper, he sprung the surprise: before you get your certificate, you have to give us a memorable one liner. Suddenly the atmosphere became charged – with intense thought and reliving of past six weeks, the emotions, the memories, the joys, the aches..
Eighth June had taught some humility to everyone, including S. It was obvious in the spirit of the evening and in some of the words spoken around the table.
Eating humble pie, once in a while, is very good for health, you know! And there is always an inner ridge, much more important to be scaled..
Tring tring..
May I speak to Avita please?...
A few seconds later, Avita hands the phone to S. …
Is it not a spiritual act when people trust their children unto strange lands, strange people?
The whole group, including Nishant, Nirmal and S, went for a lunch hosted so kindly by Mr Shukla, Ruchika’s grand pa; Erin from Rachna Guest house was also invited to join us. Nirmal and Nishant helped S return the rented trekking equipment.
Later that evening, Abhishek and Samidha quietly turned one of the vacant rooms in the hostel in to a “studio” and recorded some great songs, as a gift to S.
The group departed early in the morning to go to Gurgaon, to Samidha’s cousin.
We know that there is no parting in the SPIRIT – that all this is a mere dream, meeting or parting.. yet difficult not to agree when Maggi says:
Everything seems so empty- no?
God bless and thank you all – parent and friends too.